Hydrolyzed Keratin for Hair, Skin & Cosmetic Formulations

Keratin is the main structural protein in hair and nails and is also present in the outer layers of the skin. Native keratin is tough, highly cross-linked, and poorly soluble, which makes it difficult to use in cosmetic formulas.

Hydrolysis breaks proteins into smaller peptides. This makes hydrolyzed keratin easier to use in haircare and skincare formulas.

For cosmetic formulators and personal care brands, understanding the difference between native keratin and hydrolyzed keratin is important. Their properties, behavior, and potential applications are not interchangeable.

Manufacturers produce hydrolyzed keratin by breaking keratin protein into lower-molecular-weight peptides and amino-acid-containing fractions. Suppliers may source commercial keratin from wool, feathers, or other animal-derived materials, depending on the manufacturing process.

Hydrolysis generally improves water dispersibility and makes the ingredient easier to incorporate into shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in treatments, creams, and lotions.

Hair fibers contain a high level of keratin. However, bleaching, coloring, relaxing, heat styling, UV exposure, and frequent grooming can damage the hair over time. This damage can make the cuticle rougher and increase breakage, friction, and moisture sensitivity.

In a cosmetic formula, hydrolyzed keratin can deposit on the hair surface. Depending on their molecular weight and the finished formulation, some smaller peptides may interact with damaged areas of the hair fiber. Their performance depends on peptide size and the formula used. These interactions may provide several cosmetic benefits:

• Hair conditioning: helps improve softness, smoothness, and manageability.
• Film forming: leaves a light film that can improve the feel of the hair surface.
• Reduced roughness: can help create a smoother cuticle feel in damaged hair.
• Support for hair-fiber properties: Some studies have reported improvements in breakage-related or tensile measurements, although results vary with molecular weight, use level, hair type, damage level and formula design. However, results can vary depending on molecular weight, hair type, damage level, concentration, and formula design.
• Improved appearance: smoother fibers may look glossier and feel less frizzy.

Hydrolyzed keratin is not the same as a salon keratin-straightening service. It is a conditioning protein hydrolysate and does not straighten hair on its own. Finished-product claims should be supported by testing on the final formulation. The ingredient itself is a conditioning protein hydrolysate and does not automatically straighten hair. Manufacturers should support finished-product claims with testing on the final formulation.

Haircare manufacturers widely use hydrolyzed keratin in shampoos, conditioners, masks, and treatment products. It can also condition the skin and form a light film in some skincare and body-care formulas.

On the skin, protein-derived films can create a smoother and softer feel. They can also work well with humectants and emollients in moisturizers. These benefits are best described as surface conditioning.

Formulators can add hydrolyzed keratin to moisturizers, creams, leave-on lotions, and masks. It also works well in products for dry-feeling skin. The sensory and hydration performance of a finished product depends on the complete formulation, not on hydrolyzed keratin alone.

Hydrolyzed keratin performs differently in hair-care and skincare formulations. The table below summarizes its primary functions, potential benefits and key formulation considerations.

Hydrolyzed keratin for hair is primarily used as a conditioning and film-forming ingredient. Its performance depends on the supplied grade, molecular-weight profile, use level and complete formulation. Common cosmetic applications include:

• Shampoos and Rinse-Off Conditioners: Helps improve hair softness, smoothness and manageability while supporting a more conditioned surface feel.

• Hair Masks and Intensive Treatments: Suitable for formulations developed for bleached, colored, relaxed or heat-damaged hair.

• Leave-In Conditioners and Detangling Products: Can contribute to easier combing, reduced surface roughness and improved hair feel.

• Anti-Frizz Serums and Styling Products: Forms a light film on the hair surface that may help improve smoothness and the appearance of frizzy hair.

• Skin and Body-Care Formulations: Can provide surface-conditioning and film-forming properties in facial moisturizers, body lotions, hand creams and masks.

• Nail-Care Products: May be considered for conditioning formulations, subject to compatibility, stability and finished-product performance testing.

The appropriate use level and addition process depend on the specific hydrolyzed keratin grade. Formulators should follow supplier guidance and evaluate solubility, pH, odor, color, preservation, compatibility and stability in the finished product.

ZXCHEM hydrolyzed keratin is available in powder and liquid grades for different cosmetic formulation requirements. The appropriate grade and use level should be selected according to the product format, desired active-matter content and finished-formula performance.

• INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Keratin
• Source: Chicken or duck feathers
• Solubility: Well soluble in water
• Average Molecular Weight: Approximately 400–2,000 Da, depending on the grade
• Available Forms: Off-white powder and yellow-to-dark-brown liquid grades
• Raw-Material pH: Grade-dependent; current specifications list 5.5–7.5 for the powder grade and 4.0–7.0 for selected liquid grades

Typical use levels listed in the current ZXCHEM product manual include:

• Hair-care shampoos: 0.2%–2%
• Hair-care conditioners: 0.5%–5%
• Pre-treatments for hair coloring: 1%–5%
• Pre-treatments for hair perming: 1%–5%

These ranges are general starting points rather than finished-formula guarantees. Formulators should confirm the selected product code and latest TDS before use, then evaluate solubility, pH, odor, color, preservation, compatibility, stability and performance in the final formulation.

Hydrolyzed keratin is a versatile cosmetic ingredient primarily used for its hair-conditioning and film-forming properties. Hydrolysis produces smaller, more water-soluble peptides that are easier to incorporate into hair-care and personal-care formulations than native keratin.

Its performance depends on the keratin source, molecular-weight profile, supplied grade, use level and complete formulation. In skincare products, claims should remain focused on surface conditioning and sensory benefits. Finished-product claims should be supported by appropriate stability and performance testing.

ZXCHEM supplies HydroTide® hydrolyzed keratin in powder and liquid grades for shampoos, conditioners, masks, leave-in treatments and other personal-care formulations.

Review our hydrolyzed keratin product specifications or contact the ZXCHEM team to request the latest TDS, SDS, COA, samples and grade-selection support.